October 7, 2007 – Sunday. The last lap. Mysore to Bangalore

After the morning temple ride which was about 20 kms off Mysore and click a few good ones the ride back was uneventful for a while.

But then, there was a buzz around the highway. Superbikers united.

Kawaks, Yams, BMWS, Hondas about 10 of them zoom in and around weaving through the traffic. They must’ve been at it in the morning.

For a while I was depressed that I was on this slow coach Bullet which just about managed 100 Kms/hr and did not have any pick-up where those buggers could surge even after 90 kms/hr.

Those chaps were clocking 140 + easily. What a sight. Good for them. I might get one of those but then, what the heck, what’s the big deal of having a bike and then clocking it on Sundays and doing rallys… that’s not the reason we wanted to bike. Our reasons for biking were to explore the country side ride through life…

Sure, we’ll get a superbike but, when they come to the country with proper service stations and reach for parts. Without it Sunday rides were bull shit. Let these fellows try the road to Irrity and get back one piece.

That was that.

Home at last by afternoon. A few beers and lunch later well deserved crash out and back to the more mundane chores of corporate life.

Till the next ride or drive… cheers.

October 3, 2007 – Wednesday. Kannur

Reminded me of that song by Winwood
Bird flying high and you know how I feel
Sun up in the sky, you know how I feel,
that's what I mean
It's a new dawn
It's new day
It's a new life for me
And I'm feelin' good

That was how I felt at 7 AM. New dawn, new day. Albeit, with a little back ache no doubt. Wifey was not yet up and she was more tired than me. So I let her be.

I took some time out to re-live the day before. This was one I’ll not forget in a hurry, don’t think both of us will. But then, we were here in Kannur, and that too for a special reason. To try and locate a Theyyam.

As the local folklore goes, this goes way back. Precedes even Hinduism. It was a religious ritual plus an art form. No one really knew which part was the ritual and which part is the art. But then, it’s a spectacle for anyone, whether he’s seen it or not. While the performer is doing it, he goes into a trance or a possessed state where he becomes identified with the god he’s portraying giving it a mythical identity. Theyyam means godlike.

The make up, dressing and discipline before the act is rigorous and often stretches into hours where the artists fast till its over without even water to drink. These happen at Kavus or mangroves which are plentiful in Kanoor and Kasaragod. Therefore we were at the heart of Theyyam territory and probably in season.

Talking to people around, the hotel manager, locals etc led us to find out about a certain folklore academy in Kannur. If we were up to it we would be going there today.

But first, we needed a change of slippers. So went to town to get our feet covered. The afternoon sun was really hot and were in the mood to just chill for the day. So to hell went all research and out came a few beers and then lunch and crash.

Late afternoon we did find the Kerala Folklore academy … bad luck Theyyam season started end of October none to be sighted now. But on grilling the unwilling boys at the academy there emerged one place where it happened but in a small way in a temple. The Patasinikadavu temple where it happened everyday but then at 5:30 in the morning.

Rest of the evening went out in the regular sightseeing, the fort, the beach, the town.

So next morning’s plan was made. The Bullet was given for clean-up and service after I found out the station. Got it back in good shape. Any other vehicle could not have taken that slaughter. That’s the difference between a Bull and the rest.

Lazed around in the evening to unwind.

Theyyam or other things? Click here.

Rockin in them cotton fields ... October 1, 2007 Monday

Fresh and quick to wake up. Great morning, the sun was about to rise. It was 6 AM. Not a soul out on the tread. I went around the campus to figure out if the morning safari was on as that would’ve been fantastic. Alas there were no other takers at that time so it had to be in the afternoon.

So we spent the morning in the fields. Cotton and paddy. Walking around with the village folks. Chilling out right in the middle of the fields and way off the roads… Almost fell off the Bullet in one of these fields rides in the mud.

But then, this is just the right concoction to beat the heat of the city.

3:00 PM our resort manager comes looking for us and takes us on for the Jungle ride. The ride in the cramped up Gypsy was ok for wifey, but for me there was no leg room at all…

While we started off with much gusto this became a wimp as we discovered it had rained last night and we were not allowed to take the mud roads into the real terrain to do some real spotting.

So we had to settle for some deer, wild elephant, fox, bison and monkeys…so much for Jungle Jim. To top it off a short shower followed, so the very thought of probably doing it again next day was off.

That night was the drifting for the next destination. Much discussion, debates, references. Books, routes, times ... Kerala seemed like a destination. Somewhere I read about a fascinating ritual called Theyyam. And Kannur was the hot spot for experiencing this, it said October was the given time for it.

That was it. Both of us were in agreement. To the land of Theyyams be it. Let the free spirit rock.

After a quick dinner we told the manager that we would be out the next morning after breakfast. We told him where we were headed. He gave us a mysterious look (which we'll realize why later on the next day when hit the road) and then told us that there were bad roads ahead. A long stretch of it. And it was raining on the other side. The total distance would take us about 4 hours.

That was enough for another round of debate between me and wifey and we left it undecided till the next morning. We were going out anyway we’ll decide if it’ll be Mysore or Kannur on the way!

The journey to land of Theyyams or Gods... click here.

September 30. A raging bull in Nagerhole.

Trip start point Airport Road
Distance 200 Kms (approximately)
Trip end point Jungle Inn (Nagerhole)
Route Bangalore – Srirangapatinam – Hunsur – Nagerhole
Duration/time 4 1/2 hours (8 AM – 1:30 PM)

This ride was really really repetitive and boring. Done this stretch so many times. Cut till Hunsur. Nothing changes… do refer to my earlier trip stories for more on this route (Bangalore-Mysore).

After Hunsur comes the diversion to the small single road which leads to the jungle. And that’s where everything changes. The road less tarred. Lush greens all around. Cotton fields on either side. Clouds painting sketches in the blue sky. Lone cottages looking serene. The cool fresh air right on your face. And even the mind changes, thoughts change. Forgotten are the frustrations of the city life, the irking traffic, the pollution, the navigation, the deja vu... this is life to be lived, loved.

This is fresh, green, passionate. The mix with the clear blue sky, a canvas that makes the mind go wild… the whiff of natural scents, the flowers blooming, the smell fresh soil which has tasted water… this was the real trip.

Well, it lasted all of 20 mins and the resort sign welcomed us. We dismantle the Bull and walk up to the office where the friendly manager helps us find a place to stay room or tent was a choice. We were lucky he said, normally, this place was packed on weekends this weekend the bookings were a bit low.

We went for the jungle tent which was a contraption hung on solid foundations of course and with a walled up toilet.

Freshening up and lunch went in a flash, we were out on the road to find our way to the Jungle. And it came within 5 minutes… NO ENTRY FOR MOTOR BIKES.

No amount of coaxing the forest guard could change his mind. So I guessed something must’ve happened. On chatting up with the manager later that evening we got to know that some bikers were caught unawares by a wild elephant and had suffered injuries. I am yet to fathom how one could survive an elephant attack though!

Anyway the day went behind finding designs by clouds and subjects by the village folk. Thumped back in the evening to our tent.

The night is different here. Everything shuts down at 7. There’s no light, no music no cacophony of sound. One can hear the sound of crickets, some distant howling, and of course the staff at the resort having a scrap over something insignificant.

After a heavy dinner, a short night walk around campus, and, overhearing a corporate gang's drunken conversation how they should be working (there was a convention on those two days at the resort) we decided to call it a day.

Quick to fall asleep with dreams of getting into a jungle safari the next day.

Read the next part. Click here.

Roads to terrains by accident. September 30 – October 7, 2007

The wandering mind…a spoonful of indecisiveness or a thimbleful of inspiration? - quote by "yours truly"!

This was the much needed break after cramming the last few months of real hard work. While the break was a necessity, the places came quite by accident. And, even the actual date of riding out came like that... an accident.

Only two things were planned. One, the deed of taking the break, and two, the thought of biking “somewhere” …

To be true to the spirit of the road hog that I've become, the Bullet was checked up, serviced and tuned to perfection, a short test ride to make it highway prone, the saddle bags sunned out, a list of things to buy and do before take off made and ready.

The leave due on September 25, dragged on till the 28h. The vaguely-fixed date of departure 29th, we still were not clear where we should go… few bland options…Mysore, Hassan, Ooty, Bandipur … seen em all many times over. Boring mate.

So the 29th was the first day of inspirational focus, to figure out whether we’re going out at all or not. Loafed around the whole day, bought most of the things needed, hung out at Pecos, waffled over a movie, floated over a book, random searched google (with words like yawn, fiber optics, tar, nicotine not even remotely associated with what I wanted to do)…

It did strike early evening. Wildlife as a first to go. So after a few searches and phone calls later, we KNEW that we were going to ride out the next day, and where we were headed and the first pit stop became Nagerhole.

Time to move to the next part of this travelogue. Click here.