October 3, 2007 – Wednesday. Kannur

Reminded me of that song by Winwood
Bird flying high and you know how I feel
Sun up in the sky, you know how I feel,
that's what I mean
It's a new dawn
It's new day
It's a new life for me
And I'm feelin' good

That was how I felt at 7 AM. New dawn, new day. Albeit, with a little back ache no doubt. Wifey was not yet up and she was more tired than me. So I let her be.

I took some time out to re-live the day before. This was one I’ll not forget in a hurry, don’t think both of us will. But then, we were here in Kannur, and that too for a special reason. To try and locate a Theyyam.

As the local folklore goes, this goes way back. Precedes even Hinduism. It was a religious ritual plus an art form. No one really knew which part was the ritual and which part is the art. But then, it’s a spectacle for anyone, whether he’s seen it or not. While the performer is doing it, he goes into a trance or a possessed state where he becomes identified with the god he’s portraying giving it a mythical identity. Theyyam means godlike.

The make up, dressing and discipline before the act is rigorous and often stretches into hours where the artists fast till its over without even water to drink. These happen at Kavus or mangroves which are plentiful in Kanoor and Kasaragod. Therefore we were at the heart of Theyyam territory and probably in season.

Talking to people around, the hotel manager, locals etc led us to find out about a certain folklore academy in Kannur. If we were up to it we would be going there today.

But first, we needed a change of slippers. So went to town to get our feet covered. The afternoon sun was really hot and were in the mood to just chill for the day. So to hell went all research and out came a few beers and then lunch and crash.

Late afternoon we did find the Kerala Folklore academy … bad luck Theyyam season started end of October none to be sighted now. But on grilling the unwilling boys at the academy there emerged one place where it happened but in a small way in a temple. The Patasinikadavu temple where it happened everyday but then at 5:30 in the morning.

Rest of the evening went out in the regular sightseeing, the fort, the beach, the town.

So next morning’s plan was made. The Bullet was given for clean-up and service after I found out the station. Got it back in good shape. Any other vehicle could not have taken that slaughter. That’s the difference between a Bull and the rest.

Lazed around in the evening to unwind.

Theyyam or other things? Click here.