October 4, 2007 – Thursday. A Theyyam look see and to Calicut

Up at 5:00 but could make it out of the door only at 6:00 wifey opted to sleep it off. So it was a solo ride of about 18 kms to the temple in the forest village.

Long winding lanes after a reasonable Mangalore – Kerala highway I found myself in a temple like surrounding. What struck me was the cleanliness of the place. And the absence of touts and I was just yet another tourist.

By the time I reached the main abstract of the ritual was over and there were two fully dressed people (made up like in the kathakali) standing in front of the actual deity. People were clamoring to talk to them for advice and blessings…

No photographs allowed. So for the time being it has to in writing till I get to sight a full theyyam and click it.

Went back to the hotel and we decided to move to the next town.

Calicut that day enough of Kannur. At least chill in the sun and sand of the beach.

Kerala roads are bad. Real Effing bad. More potholes than roads. And that’s not just about highways, but also city and town roads. Dirty, polluted, potholed and messy. And to add to misery the road signs suck bad too.

So after losing our way a couple of time we finally hit the right track and into Calicut. This was only about 90 Kms but took us about 4 hours. And we were exhausted too.

Lazed about the town in the evening. Hung out at the beach. And soon came the topic where next. While this was a more prosperous town than Kannu, this was no chill joint.

So, the forest is what we knew was possible and we could head back homewards as well as the holiday was coming to an end.

Wayand would be it. And lucky again one night’s stay available there. A distance of about 100 kms to Bethery or about 90 Kms to Kalpeta, which seemed doable regardless of whatever roads stretch came our way.

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October 3, 2007 – Wednesday. Kannur

Reminded me of that song by Winwood
Bird flying high and you know how I feel
Sun up in the sky, you know how I feel,
that's what I mean
It's a new dawn
It's new day
It's a new life for me
And I'm feelin' good

That was how I felt at 7 AM. New dawn, new day. Albeit, with a little back ache no doubt. Wifey was not yet up and she was more tired than me. So I let her be.

I took some time out to re-live the day before. This was one I’ll not forget in a hurry, don’t think both of us will. But then, we were here in Kannur, and that too for a special reason. To try and locate a Theyyam.

As the local folklore goes, this goes way back. Precedes even Hinduism. It was a religious ritual plus an art form. No one really knew which part was the ritual and which part is the art. But then, it’s a spectacle for anyone, whether he’s seen it or not. While the performer is doing it, he goes into a trance or a possessed state where he becomes identified with the god he’s portraying giving it a mythical identity. Theyyam means godlike.

The make up, dressing and discipline before the act is rigorous and often stretches into hours where the artists fast till its over without even water to drink. These happen at Kavus or mangroves which are plentiful in Kanoor and Kasaragod. Therefore we were at the heart of Theyyam territory and probably in season.

Talking to people around, the hotel manager, locals etc led us to find out about a certain folklore academy in Kannur. If we were up to it we would be going there today.

But first, we needed a change of slippers. So went to town to get our feet covered. The afternoon sun was really hot and were in the mood to just chill for the day. So to hell went all research and out came a few beers and then lunch and crash.

Late afternoon we did find the Kerala Folklore academy … bad luck Theyyam season started end of October none to be sighted now. But on grilling the unwilling boys at the academy there emerged one place where it happened but in a small way in a temple. The Patasinikadavu temple where it happened everyday but then at 5:30 in the morning.

Rest of the evening went out in the regular sightseeing, the fort, the beach, the town.

So next morning’s plan was made. The Bullet was given for clean-up and service after I found out the station. Got it back in good shape. Any other vehicle could not have taken that slaughter. That’s the difference between a Bull and the rest.

Lazed around in the evening to unwind.

Theyyam or other things? Click here.